Window seats are one of my favorite home improvement projects.  They’re a great way to drastically change the look of any room,  and are both attractive and useful additions to a home.  Window seats provide many benefits, with a minimal amount of cost and about a  day’s work.

They can provide extra seating,  they’re a great place to hide the children’s toys and they look great.  They are only limited by your creativity!  The more imaginative the design, the better the finished product will look.

Some window seats have storage,  and some don’t.  Your design should be dictated by what you plan to use it for.  If you are going to store items that you frequently use, I recommend that the storage access be in the front.  If the items you are going to store are not needed every day, then top access would work best.

You can easily store linens or bedding in a window seat with a flip-up top.  Storage for books or toys might be better served with front-opening cabinets, or sliding doors.  If no storage is needed or your budget is tight,  a decorative seat without storage will still add charm to a room, and it would be indistinguishable from one that has storage.

The two most common ways to build a window seat are:  to buy stock cabinets, or make your own box.  I choose which way to build a window seat depending on where the storage will be, if any.  If storage access is going to be at the top, I most always build my own box.  If the window seat is going to have front access.  I use pre-built refrigerator cabinets and build the top seat myself.

For a custom look, make sure the trim and molding  you choose for your window seat match the trim already used in the room.  This way, the integration is seamless and the seat will look like it’s always been there. 

I’ve built quite a few of these over the years, and I’m still amazed at how something so simple can really change the look and feel of a room.

Could any room in your house use a window seat?

Today was a beautiful spring day here in Las Vegas, so I pulled my shorts from the closet for the first time this year.  Before we know it, the dog days of summer will be upon us. 

From time to time,  my clients ask about ways to save money on their energy bills.  In these cases,  I  perform a simple energy audit for them.   It’s not difficult,  and actually anyone can do it themselves.

I try to do the audits in the spring, preferably on a windy day.  It’s easier to find any air leaks when the wind is blowing, and it allows time for any repairs to be completed before air conditioners start working overtime.

  TOP TEN LIST OF MONEYSAVING TIPS! 

1.  Check for air leaks around windows , doors, electrical outlets, switch covers, and baseboards.  You can save 25 percent on energy use by decreasing or eliminating these types of leaks.  The best way to solve leakage around windows & doors is to add sweeps and weather stripping.  Air leaks around outlets and switch covers can be fixed by taking off the covers and sealing around the box with spray foam insulation.  This is one of the most common places that air enters or escapes.

2.  Check that any weather stripping is in its proper place and doing its job.  If it’s cracked or  shows signs of dry rot, it needs to be replaced.

3.  Check for windows that rattle.  Where there is a rattle, there is a gap and therefore an air leak.  Installation of weather stripping may be needed, if the leaks are really bad.   The window may need replaced.

4.  Check the quantity of insulation in the home, especially the attic.  Energy Star recommends insulating your attic to r38, or 10 to 14 in. thick.

5.  Check the wattage of light bulbs.  Lighting can account for about 10 percent of energy costs.  (Energy efficient, long life fluorescent are the best option and they can mean huge savings in the long run.)

6.  Look for damaged stucco on the outside of the house.  Any cracks or holes should be patched or caulked.

7.  Look for gaps where pipes and/or wires enter the house.  Seal any gaps with foam or caulking.

8.  Check all toilets and faucets for slow leaks.  If  leaks are found replace the flapper of the fill valve on the toilet and the washer or cartridge on the faucet.

9.  Check the hot water heater in the garage to see if it’s wrapped with insulation.  Adding insulation can reduce heat loss by 25%–35%.  This will save you about 3%–8% in water heating costs.

10.  Check the hot water pipes in the attic to see if they’re wrapped with insulation.  Newer homes are easier to inspect because the Wirsbo lines are red.

The main thing to remember here is that every little bit helps.  It’s not that difficult to find ways to save  money,  and you don’t have to break the bank to get started!  

Growing up in the Midwest,  I must admit that I took water for granted.  The grass and crops grew with little or no irrigation.   As I sit here, I can only recall a few people that watered their lawns, and they did it because they really had nothing else to do.  Here in Las Vegas, it’s a little different.  Growing anything means you MUST water.

I bought my first home here in Vegas because it reminded me of  the homes of my childhood.  It had a big lot, with all grass and mature trees.  That’s definitely a rarity here in Vegas.  After the first big windstorm, I realized that the trees were hollow inside from years of the harsh Vegas sun drying them from the inside out.  I also found out how hard it was to grow grass here.  I had to run my sprinklers seven days a week, three times a day.  One sprinkler malfunction or one plugged sprinkler head,  and you have dead grass in just a couple of days.  The increase in my water bill, and the time that I spent turning on my automatic sprinkler system and adjusting heads, changed my mind really quickly.

I realized that a desert landscape and a drip irrigation system were the only way to go.   My water bill has been reduced by 75%, and I can spend my time enjoying my backyard rather that being in defensive mode, trying to force grass to grow.  I will admit that it took me a while to get used to rocks instead of grass, but with a little careful planning and some creativity, you can have a really beautiful yard full of colorful plants.

Because native desert plants have different watering needs than grass, your irrigation clock should allow different settings for drip and sprinkler stations.

Drip irrigation is truly beneficial to plants in desert environments.  Drip systems should run longer than sprinkler systems because they deliver water more slowly.  Determine the length of time to water based on the flow rate of your drip emitters, the types of plants you are watering and the condition of the soil.

 Drip irrigation is usually needed less frequently than sprinkler irrigation.  

Check your drip line periodically for breaks and check emitters for clogs or heads that have broken off.  Ensure that each emitter is releasing the proper amount of water.

In my opinion, there’s no such thing as a maintenance-free lawn.  But, a desert landscape and drip irrigation system is pretty darn close.  There are just a few things you should know to keep your drip system running smooth.

1.  Flush the drip irrigation lines and filters every time you change your irrigation schedule, or at least twice a year.

2.  Find the “end cap” on your drip line.  This should be at the furthest point from your valve box.  Open the cap and briefly run the system to flush out any debris that could be clogging your line.

3.  Turn off the water before trying to recap your line.

When it’s 112 degrees outdoors,  the last thing you want to do is work in your yard.  Change over to a desert landscape, then you can spend less time sweating and more time inside in the air conditioner.

 Here is a great video from TheStudioShop, detailing the proper way to hang artwork.

It isn’t necessary to buy the most expensive tools.  High end tools are made for professionals.  However, purchasing the cheapest tool available will often cause more frustration than it’s worth in the end.   Just do your research, and make the best decision that you can.

Drill- This is the one power tool on the list.   A  3/8″ electric drill will get you through most anything you will need to drill thorugh.  They are relatively inexpensive, and can be used it in a variety of ways.  You can use drill bits to drill holes, and you may also use a screw bit as a screw driver.  Personally, I also mix drywall texture with mine.

Hammer- A 16 oz. curved claw hammer is my recommendation.  I’ve had mine for 20 years, and probably will for at least 20 more.  It’s light enough for someone inexperienced to use, and the curved claw is great for pulling nails.

Pliers- I have chosen three different types of pliers.  Each has a specific use.

 Slip-joint pliers can be used  to grab hold of a nut or a bolt.  This type of pliers is very versatile because it can be adjusted to the task at hand.

Needle nose pliers can be used to pull small nails, and can also get into tight areas.

Locking pliers are one of the most versatile items in the toolbox.  The jaws are easily adjusted, and they clamp onto anything that needs stabilization.

Saws- Three saws are a must.  A Cross Cut saw, A Rip Saw, and a Hack Saw.  Notice again, I didn’t include any power tools here.  They are not a necessity,  just a convenience.

A crosscut saw is used to cut across the grain of wood.

A rip saw is used to cut with the grain of wood.

A hack saw is used to cut metal.

Miter Box- A miter box is a tool that is used to make precision angle cuts.  It is used with a handsaw.

Screwdrivers- Medium Flat, Small Flat, #1 Phillips, #2 Phillips, Stubby Flat, and Stubby Phillips.

Screw drivers are used on many repairs.  These 5 should get you through most anything  you’d need to do.

Wrenches- A set of adjustable wrenches and a set of Allen wrenches should get you through most projects.

A two-piece set of adjustable wrenches.   One small and one large  wrench should do the trick. 

Knives- A razor knife is essential for countless jobs, from scoring drywall to sharpening your pencil.

One  small and one large putty knife is also essential.

Sockets- Most good socket sets come with at least 40 parts.  They also come with a carring case that keeps the set organized.  A socket set should have:

2 ratchets of different sizes

2 to 4 extensions

Full range of metric sockets

Full range of standard sockets

Levels- The torpedo level is handiest when working in tight quarters. It’s small enough to be put to use in spaces that are too cramped for longer levels.

Two-foot levels usually have three bubble vials, one at each end for establishing true vertical or plumb, and one mounted at the center along the length of level for leveling.

Ladders- A 6 ft step ladder and 16 ft extension ladder.

Electrical Tester-  An electrical  plug tester is simple to use and only costs a few dollars.  You just plug it int0 the outlet and take note of the pattern of lights.

Caulking Gun-  Caulking guns are a common and useful tool on most do-it-yourself jobs.  Caulk has many uses and comes in many varieties.  Caulk can be used inside and out, mostly protecting from water damage. 

Plunger-  A clogged sink or toilet is one of the most common problems in home repair.   With a plunger on hand, you can usually remedy these troubling plumbing issues relatively quickly.  It is best to have two plungers — one for the sink and one for the toilet.

Tape Measure- Measuring projects requires the use of a tape measure.  They come in many lengths, although 25 feet is best.

Speed Square- A speed square is another essential tool.  It is can be used for finding angles to laying out rafters, or to just draw a straight line.